Sunday 6/23/2013
A very traditional Sunday in Makumira
In the morning, Kristen and I went to church with Mama. We had slept in, so we asked Mama if we
should wait to go the 10 o’clock service. It was 7:50, but Mama shrugged and
said, eh, we could probably make it to the 8 o’clock. She still had to shower. Love it.
It was about a five minute walk. We heard the bell tolling before we could see
the church, but Mama pronounced that we were right on time. We stopped in a classroom to say hi to Mama’s
Sunday school class. She actually
teaches them on Saturdays, through a program called “Compassion” for
disadvantaged children. Compassion goes
beyond a traditional Sunday school to teach the children about manners and give
them care that they might not see at home.
Mama attends a Lutheran church. It was spacious with marble tiles and high
ceilings, evidently an important building in the community. The service had lots of singing, and the
choir sang several times. When the choir got up to sing, they moved into a
single line before us and stood there motionless for a few moments. Then they began to sway, and then pulse, and
soon they were full-out singing and dancing.
They really knew how to move, even in the most subtle way. Most of the singing was high-pitched and
soft, while accompanied by an electric guitar and some sort of
synthesizer. It made for a cool,
ethereal sound, and of course it always had a good beat.
Everyone was dressed in their Sunday best. But it was interesting to see the Tanzanian
definition of “Sunday best”. There were
so many patterns. The men mostly wore
suits, very similar to western clothing.
Many of the women wore starchy blouse and skirt outfits with matching
headscarves, head-to-toe in one vibrant pattern. I also saw a lot of structured jackets and
shoulder pads. The kids were all dressed
up puffy princess skirts and little suits, which was adorable.
At one point, we had to introduce ourselves in Swahili to
the congregation, which was pretty fun.
It wasn’t intimidating because everyone is so welcoming.
During the sermon, Mama whispered translations to us:
She says that when we join together, we are powerful. When we do not, we are weak. The Lutheran church has united across Tanzania and that’s why it is strong.She says we should join together so that we may both grow and do big things. When we are lonely, we cannot.She says we should not lie. We should always be faithful. In the Bible, there were people who lied, and because of that, they died. So we should be faithful in anything we do.
Today was Jubilee, celebrating
the 50th anniversary of the Lutheran Church of Tanzania, which is
why the pastor spoke of the importance of unity in her sermon.
The service lasted about an hour and a half, which was very
reasonable. I’ve heard that some of the
services that other host families attend can last for as long as three to five
hours. Before leaving church, we all
dropped money in a donations basket. The
church seemed to have an extremely strong emphasis on donations. Mama has her own donations envelope, marked
with her name, Glory Mswia. (This was how I came to know her last name.) It helps her keep track of her donations
throughout the year.
We left the church, walked outside, and I realized that the men
and women had separated into two groups.
One by one, people brought up goods to the center of the group and a man
began to rattle off prices very quickly—they were having an auction. Mama explained that people can bring in goods
instead of money for donations. She
herself bought 4 avocados for 1000 shillings (less than a dollar). The money she paid will go to the donations
envelope of the person who brought the avocados.
In the afternoon, Stella took us to the market in Usa River
(there are several markets in the area, each held on specific days). The market was pretty chaotic. The food was laid out on blankets right on
the ground, and the women selling food sat on the ground amongst their goods. Even the rice was poured out on the blankets,
totally exposed to open air. There were
also a lot of stands selling secondhand clothes and shoes. We noticed that the mannequins are a bit
larger, especially in the hips.
Mama was right—you can buy anything and everything at the
market. I didn’t take any photos,
because we were already drawing a lot of attention. Many people shouted “mzungu!” at us. Mzungu is the Swahili term for westerners. Today was actually the first day I was called
mzungu, which is odd considering how
common it is for Tanzanians to shout “mzungu!”
whenever they see westerners. I’m not
sure why it took so long, although some of Mama’s customers have called us wageni (visitors).
Stella brought us to a shop to buy traditional vitenge skirts and got us a good deal. Bargaining is customary, expected, and even
considered polite. Our Swahili teachers
have told us to feel comfortable bargaining, especially because we might be
given inflated mzungu prices. I’m hesitant to bargain, which is something I
need to work on for when I go to the market without Stella to help me. For the time being, I’m enjoying my new
Tanzanian attire.
THIS SOUNDS INCREDIBLE, I wish you had taken photos! I can't even imagine having to bargin in spanish, let alone Swahili. How have the language classes been going btw? Can't wait to hear about your trip, miss you!
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